Archive for the 'R5-X2' Category

01
Aug
11

Glued up center foot shell

So having cut off the skirts, I glued up the center foot shell.

And a few more…

I tacked it together with the steel stik JB putty, and then googled for what sort of glue to use for aluminum, on which subject people had some very complex ideas, so I again ignored all available advice, and out of simplicity and cheapness I used…

yup, E-6000 silicone.

I’ve let it dry for maybe 6 hours then un-taped it just now (I had used masking tape to hold it together for gluing, just as i would do with styrene) and snapped these photos. I’ll let it set up for a few days to let the glue get to its full strength, then begin sanding and bondo work on it.

Outer feet still need the skirts cut off, then I can try to glue those up as well. I may also want to reinforce these with….something. Maybe just random superglued bits of styrene, or perhaps little bent aluminum scraps. Something to enhance the joints here, as it’s just 1/16″ sheet, not a lot of surface to stick to for the glue so far.

Ideally I would of course have these welded, but I am far too impatient to wait till I figure out how/when/how much that would be, and even then doubt I could afford to have it professionally done anyways.

hopefully they will hold up once reinforced, time will tell.

01
Aug
11

New wave shield sound system

OK! So I have bounced back from the accidental destruction of my rMP3 shield, replaced it with the cheaper, simpler Wave shield, and off we go!

This is pretty much how I had it set up before, but omitting the volume control, as if it is possible in software, I haven’t firgured it out yet with this shield. This is using a new library that will be checked in to the Ardu-D2 repo soon
http://code.google.com/p/ardu-d2/

What it does is you put a bunch of wav files on the SD card, put it int he shield, then it listen on pin 7 for a RC pulse, and if the pulse width changes, it picks a random sound and plays it. Quite simple really, just the basics since that is all I needed for now for R5. Hard to beat the price for this sound solution, the Wav shield is a very affordable $22, and the seeeduino I’m using, which is 100% compatible with the 328-equipped duemilinove is just $22.50
A lot more could be done with it too, I have just kept it simple for now.

I have also begun assembling my center foot shell, having cut off the skirt bits with a borrowed bandsaw 🙂 I have the steel stik putty holding it together for now, I am still undecided how I wish to permanently secure it. It would be strongest welded, but I’m not sure if/when i can get that done. I’ll be at least cutting and assembling the outer feet to this degree with the putty as well, then I’ll figure out how I get them more permanently and securely finished. Maybe its just lots of JB weld, I dunno.

24
Jul
11

foot shells!

my foot shell pieces arrived!

THis is the center foot:

And here is one of the outer feet, there are 2 sets like this of course 🙂

and fortunately i have a 2 week vacation now, so I hope to get these put together, and finish up R5 😀
Big thanks go out to JoyMonkey for cutting these for me for a very reasonable cost 🙂 I’m pretty sure I have everything required to wrap up my R5 build now, and I hope to take him out for an extended test drive soon 🙂

10
Jul
11

Homemade aluminum foot strips

This was something I had been meaning to try for a while, but I needed my belt/disc sander and had lent it to Steele 😉

Here is my results…

I made a full set for my R5, didn’t have quite enough of the right size aluminum stock for another set for R2. These turned out pretty good, but are not 100% perfect. The angle on one end of the outer strips and the center strips is supposed to be 55 degrees, but my sander’s guide plate thingy only goes up to 45, so I just did 45. The other angle is 35, and it did that one just fine. These got HOT when beveling the edges, so next time I’ll wear gloves, cuz I was playing hot potato with these a few times while making them 😛

I’ll still need to drill out the holes for the hose fittings, but that I’ll leave for another day 🙂

06
Jul
11

putting hinges on pie panels, logic displays

More work on my dome, I have been putting hinges on the pie panels at the top, all except the one with the HP and the periscope one will have hinges. I know in the movie the saber launcher one retracts inward, but sorry that’s just too hard 😛 Mine will just hinge up and out like the rest. Also I dunno if this is screen accurate, but the top circle panel I will probably have swing out towards the top HP, just to have the extra mounting space for the hinge and servo on the back of that panel. again I’ll say it, simple engineering is more important to me than screen accuracy 🙂

I recieved my mcmaster hinges today, and have installed 2 tonight. I have to line them up and then put a 1/8″ spacer on the bottom of the pie panel, then I just have superglued the hinges on. I’ll see how well that holds. I hope to avoid a mechanical fastener to avoid screw holes in the dome 😛

Also have soldered in the LEDs on my two FLDs

Up till now the LEDs were just places int he holes, but not soldered in, so I soldered them. Still have to do the RLD. In that pic the right FLD is scrolling the word “HELLO” and the left one “WORLD”. That is the test sketch for the Ardu-D2 teeces logics library 🙂

10
Jun
11

hoses!

I made some foot hoses tonight. I had misplaced the nice resin KHFs I had gotten from Steele, but finally found them tonight, so i painted them up, then snipped up the sink hoses I had gotten at Home Depot a week or two ago and made some foot hoses.
The only hard part of making foot hoses is figuring out how to get them to fit into the KHFs. What I did was snip off the metal fittings on the end of the sink hoses I had, then cut them in half. (I had 2 30″ sink hoses, minus the fittings, they were ~27″ or so each which should be about right for 4 hoses…)
Then to make them fit nicely into the fittings, I pulled back the braid over the plastic hosing inside, cut out a rectangle 1″ long and .25″ wide of the plastic hose inside, pull the braid back over it, then wrap the end tightly in vinyl electric tape. This gives it a snug fit in the resin KHF. I put some E-6000 glue in a ring along the inside of each KHF and just push in the hose end.
Done! heh I’ll let them dry then these should be good.

I ordered some PVC battery boxes from Matt McCormick, so those should be covered, and i ordered some resin battery harnesses from Wayne’s new site. That leaves the foot shells. I’m still looking into how to make those. I have a reasonably refined design, but have not gotten a quote for it yet, or figured out if the R2ATL CNC will be able to cut them yet.

I’ve also been scratch building a radar eye for fun. No need for it on this droid, but if it turns out nice, which it has so far, I’ll use it on the next one 🙂

I have still neglected the center ankle cylinders and wedges. Those are easy, so no rush I guess. I’ve been taking it easy build-wise the last several days. Once I finish R5, I want to clean up my garage, and then I will probably have a bunch of little projects until I begin droid #2 in earnest. I wanna build a periscope/LFS lifter with a drawer slide, and do a 2-3-2 center leg lift in a similar way.

02
Jun
11

R5 assembled!

So, I got R5 all assembled again, and he has all his leg greeblies mounted now. I will still need to make and attach the cylinders and wedges for his center ankle, and of course he needs feet and battery boxes and hoses. Also, there are still minor issues with the center foot (somehow not surprised…) The center foot is not 100% level, so all the weight is going on the front caster, and the back one is just hanging there maybe 1mm off the ground 😛 . I’ll have to remove the center ankle lock bolt, and allow the foot to sit level, then while its standing, widen the hole in the foot channel slightly, then tighten it down again.
I messed with the various “curve” settings on my radio a bit, trying to get less touchy throttle response, as he is still massively overpowered and too fast.
Anyways, its good to be at this point 🙂

30
May
11

finishing up the legs, frame painting

So I got my other scratch-built ankle cylinder painted up and mounted on the other leg, so I have a pair of these now 🙂

Then I began working on getting the booster covers mounted….

The resin booster covers are glued onto these painted aluminum trays, which i cut from 1/16″ aluminum sheet with my jigsaw and sanded to shape. The trays then bolt to the legs, using threaded inserts set into the legs.

From this same aluminum sheet, i cut out this dual battery tray.

That mounts on the little block of 2×4 pictured with it, and bolts to the frame base plate. The 2×4 acts as a riser, and gets it out of the way of the center ankle bolts. I do want the battery to be as low as it can be though, so when i get around to replacing the ankle bolts with shorter ones that won’t stick out as much I can reduce the thickness of this riser to 1/4″ or something and get the battery weight lower.

The frame has been painted flat black, I just quickly masked off any areas with threaded parts that I didn’t want paint gumming up, and sprayed it down, then gave it a quick sanding to smooth it out. It is not my best paint job, but it should help hide and protect the frame some.

My frame top plate has been primed, but not painted yet

I am coming up on the feet and battery boxes being quite literally all that is left. I hope to finish painting the top plate today, weather the boosters, and then give the body, legs, horseshoes, and boosters all several more coats of clear coat to toughen them up.

26
May
11

One Outer Ankle complete…

I finished up one of the ankle cylinders, and got it painted, weathered, and mounted to the ankle. I had already painted the wedge, holder, and ankle details, so I weathered those, then glued it all on.

The other ankle cylinder has had it’s end bits glued on, so they are drying now. Tomorrow night when those are dry i can bondo glaze them a bit to smooth them out, then that one will be ready for paint too 🙂

I drew up a pattern for the little aluminum sleds for mounting my booster covers. I hope this weekend to get them cut out and bent and mount the booster covers. That will pretty much complete the outer legs. Then I have to worry about feet, battery boxes, and the center ankle cylinders.
I have plenty of PVC pipe for the center ankle cylinders, so that should be a cinch, just gotta do it 🙂

I have been considering, maybe before I put humpty all back together again, I should tear him down completely, and paint the wood frame black. I had gotten a few cans of flat black paint for this purpose a while back, just to help hide the frame and to help preserve it against moisture and such. It would also give his insides a finished, professional look.

24
May
11

scratch-built Ankle cylinders…

SO I have been working on making some scratch-built ankle cylinders out of PVC pipe. I got some 1″ ID PVC water pipe at home depot, and cut it into 6.5″ sections.

THen, Using this jig

I cut the grooves into the surface

And the slots for the cutouts

The jig is just an $8 miter box from home depot that came with a saw. It is screwed to the table, then a bit of pipe is clamped to the side for the workpiece to rest against so it stays the right distance from the cutting slot. The two plywood bits act as a depth stop for the cutout slot cutting. They are a little under 1″ thick, so roughly right for the dept of the cutout.

The grooves were cut by clamping the offcut bit of pipe at the different distances from each end that the grooves are at, then putting my hacksaw in the cutting slot, and spinning the pipe bit under it with my fingers. This is a little difficult, since the saw teeth aren’t meant for this material, but it cuts very smooth grooves. I tried a method Dan Baker suggested, of wrapping the pipe in .020″ styrene bits, but could not get the styrene to bend well enough to follow the tight curve.

I actually went ahead and finished cutting out the side cut on one piece with the dremel cutoff wheel, then glued .040″ styrene circles to the end with silicone to dry overnight. I’ll sand down the flashing, then make a tab and glue it on each end to finish the piece.




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